Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a naturally occurring water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. It’s the most stable form of Vitamin C, meaning it won’t oxidize and go bad in a couple months, making it a preferable choice for cosmetic formulations. It’s more stable and bioavailable than Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), Ascorbyl Palmitate, and Ascorbic Acid (among other Vitamin C derivatives).Unlike it’s powerful but bratty older brother Ascorbic Acid, it doesn’t like acidic environments and requires a pH of around 6-7.It’s an antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals, effectively slowing down the aging process and formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
The oxidized byproducts of human sebum are hugely problematic for skin. They are, after all, what leads to acne and skin aging. For example, squalene peroxide “leads to comedogenesis (i.e. clogged pores), contributes to the development of inflammatory acne, and possibly wrinkling.”And this can occur for all kinds of reasons: ozone, sun exposure (particularly long UVA rays), cigarette smoke,the natural yeast like malassezia that live on our skin, environmental pollution etc. are shown powerful oxidizing agents of our skin oils.So the fact that SAP can prevent this by up to 40% is astonishing! Not only for the prevention of acne, but also as a very useful tool against aging and the damaging effects that pollution causes on our skin.